via NaturallyCurly.com

Why does curly hair frizz so much?

Straight hair has a smooth cuticle with the layers lying tightly together. With curly hair, the hair follicle is curved causing the outer layer or cuticle to bend. This bending results in the cuticle being permanently lifted and becoming very fragile. Add the damage caused by chemicals, heat and friction (brushing, rubbing with a towel, touching, sleeping) and your smooth curls become frizzy curls.

Hair porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture. Hair with high porosity is like a sponge with many tiny holes that can absorb a lot of water. Low porosity is like a sponge with uneven holes and tears which can’t absorb or retain as much water. Curly hair cuticles are like torn sponges, while damaged curly hair is a torn sponge in really bad shape.

Many oils, including heavy cholesterols, do not have the ability to penetrate into the hair shaft. Instead, they lay on top of the cuticle, coating just the outer surface. Oils can add some shine to your hair, but they will also lead to build-up of product on your hair, which can damage your curly locks.

Morning Divas!!!

I'm just going to write a bit about pH levels- which will not require you to go searching around and looking at pH levels with litmus paper. It just requires using a rinse after your wash sessions!!

Basic Info to know first:

The pH scale runs on a range of 0-14. The lower the pH- the more acidic the solution. The breaking point for the scale is 7, which is neutral (this is the pH level of pure water). Any pH over 7 is a basic solution. pH is the measure of the "potential of hydrogen." Dry hair does not have a pH!!!! Hair's ph ranges between 4.5 and 5.5 when in water. The sebum, which is the oil that our scalp naturally produces has about the same pH. Some products on the market are created to have a pH within a range similar to hair. Some conditioners are also designed to have lower pH then the hair- its generally acidic in state.

Working with the Basics:

As previously discusses pH between 7.1-14 is basic or alkaline. These Basic solutions open the cuticle layer of hair which allows moisture, protein, almost anything to get into your hair cuticles and touch your hair's core keratin strand. Think of your hair as your spin with the vertebrae around it- when the cuticle opens we are stretching the vertebrae apart and can access your spinal cord. This is the perfect time to add protein which will strengthen your strand (though some peoples hair HATES protein). IT is also the key time to add moisture so that your hair has a nice cool drink of water with a dose of lubricants to keep things working smoothly on the inside :)! Be careful because this is also the time that your hair can lose water or retain too much, or even worse the water can dissolve leaving behind residue such as salts or other mineral present in hard water which do NOT help your strands!!!!!

This is what the baking soda washes are used for by some people- as well as to clean your hair. On average, baking soda has a pH in the range of 8.3-9.0 and when mixed with water the pH is more around 8.2-8.8 depending on the proportions. This is because water is neutral (7). Hair would be left at that pH as well (8.2-8.8) which is why an acidic rinse would be necessary to leave the hair in its own pH range or in a slightly more acidic pH range which can help the hair.

I would NOT recommend the use of baking soda on your hair, unless you are looking to relax your curl pattern temporarily. It opens your cuticles and allows your hair to retain too much water, which can also be bad- imagine overfilling a balloon with air...(yeah not a great idea). Baking soda will also steal hydrogens from your hair which is bad- like carbon monoxide stealing oxygen from the air and your body- (which is also known as a silent killer). I think you get the idea- just try not to use it.

What pH should you aim for in the end?

The best pH level to leave your hair at is around 4.0-4.5 Though hair naturally has a pH of 4.5-5.5. The reason that the slightly lowered pH level is better is because it compacts the hair strand so that the cuticles are closed securely- leaving all the moisture and conditioning you did inside the hair strand. Acidifying hair can be one of the best things you do for your hair!!

1) It will add natural shine to your hair

2) It helps detangle and prevent knotting, because closed cuticles cannot grab on to other open cuticles!

3) Elasticity: the ability of your hair to move freely- in our case without snapping and being brittle. This treatment elevates the positive charge on your hair. ( negative charged ions cause frizz and static electricity). The positive charge brings the hydrogen bonds from a weak state (beta) to a strong state (alpha) and this improves elasticity because hydrogen bonds account for all of your hairs elasticity!!!!

4) Retains moisture!! Since the cuticle is snapped shut and compacted, all the conditioning and moisturizing you did will now remain inside the cuticle and not evaporate away.

Q: How can you achieve this pH level?

A: By Doing Acid the Healthy Way!

Acidic solutions do the opposite of Basics, closing the cuticle layer and allowing moisture to be retained. So Apple Cider Vinegar is the best way to get your pH at a level which keeps hair shafts closed. The way this works is ACV has a pH of 3.0 and an ACV rinse has a pH of about 4.0 ( I will test the proportions an pH later today so I can give you an exact pH to proportion measurement). The hair would likely be left at a pH of about 4.0 or so. This should be used as a final rinse for your hair to compact your cuticles some and seal in moisture.

{Sources}

http://www.smartskincare.com/skinbiology/sebum.html

http://www.salonweb.com/gold/pc.htm

http://www.hairfinder.com/hair/hair-ph-level.htm

http://www.salonweb.com/gold/hbonds.htm

via MopTopMaven

1. Do not blow dry sopping wet hair!
 Blow drying hair that is dripping wet will lead to dry, damaged hair. Carefully towel dry hair in sections using a microfiber towel prior to blow drying. When towel drying, be sure to “squeeze” not rub to avoid breakage and unnecessary tangles.

1. Use a heat protectant!
 I always use a heat protectant when thermal styling, and I swear by Aveda Brilliant Damage Control. Good heat protectants have proteins that bind to your hair shaft that acts as a barrier to prevent heat damage. + Watch your heat setting! I normally blow dry on low heat with a high power setting. Kinky hair has a tendency to be a little on the drier side, so blow drying on high heat should really be a no-no.

1. Blow dry hair until 75% dry
, then sit under a dryer to dry the remainder of your hair. I prefer this method versus blow drying my hair until it’s 100% dry because it makes for much softer hair. Another plus is that you cut down on the amount of direct heat that is applied to your hair. This technique is also beneficial to those have been less than successful at air drying. Blow drying first gives your hair that “smooth” appearance, and drying under a hooded dryer the remainder of the way gives your hair the soft “air dried” feeling [minus the crunch or kink factors

1. Hold the blow dryer 5-6 inches away from your hair when blow drying.
 Again, the key here is to avoid heat damage. Holding the dryer too close to your hair can also lead to issues with your scalp as well [dry, flaking]. + Detangle thoroughly before attempting to blow dry! Hair should be soft, smooth, and free of tangles prior to blow drying. This is the time to break out that heavy-duty seamless comb [I recommend Mason Pearson], and Fermodyl 619 if your hair is prone to tangles.

I wanted to share some more information about straightening treatments that are not permanent but will help you get your hair straighter easier with a bit of curl loosening and defining during the period the treatments lasts.

It's official name would be Brazilian Keratin Treatment (BKT), which is a curl relaxer. Some also call it Brazilian Hair Straightening or Brazilian Blowout. It first came to the United States a few years ago. It has slowly gained more popularity since then with hairstylists in the US.

Some of you have heard of Japanese hair straightening which was hot a few years ago, it is called Thermal Reconditioning. This is a natural cornstarch-based hair relaxing system which makes use of a more gentle form of ammonium thyoglycolate, which is free of the traditional relaxing waxes or lyes along with special straightening irons. However, ammonium thyoglycolate and sodium hydroxide (standard relaxers) are still harsh chemicals. Most relaxers and straighteners have those chemicals in them.

The key part of BKT is that it is not a strong chemical process. It utilizes Keratin, which is the same protein our hair is made from, of course it is a different keratin, but nonetheless it is a similar protein. I would equate it to the difference between the hormones women naturally produce and the hormones taken orally for birth control. It changes how our body operates bit, but it is hormones we generally already produce.

PROS: Aside from the gentleness of the active ingredient, Keratin, there are other pros to this treatment. Another key part of this treatment is that it does not permanently straighten your hair as relaxers do. It also works better and longer on color treated hair or chemically processed. Another plus is that there is no demarcation line between the treated hair and the new growth. Additionally, the process is also a treatment that helps your hair because the keratin fits around the cortex of your hair and strengthens it, just as any keratin treatment does. The only difference is that this one is sealed into your hair.

CONS: As my brother would say, "if its too good to be true, its not true," so here are the bad sides to this treatment. The formula contains formaldehyde which is a known carcinogen that will irritate the eyes and lungs.Make sure your stylist is highly practiced and trained in this process, you will need a room with good ventilation and protect your face and eyes when they start to blow out your hair to keep from getting any on your face and in your eyes. There are some cases where people break out into rashes or hives the next day from exposure to the chemicals in rooms without proper ventilation. It has been noted that the process contains levels of formaldehyde that is against OSHA regulations. OSHA designates that .2ppm of formaldehyde is acceptable, while brazilian treatments have 3ppm and up. The FDA will be investigating this in the coming months [Source: ALLURE October]

Prices: Prices for this treatment start around maybe $180 but can range up to $300 and $400, especially for the more curly haired, coarse haired women. You know they always jack up the price when we walk in the salon...smh.

Time: the process lasts for about 2 hours and it keeps your hair noticeablly more manageable and easier to straighten for about 6 weeks to a few months (maybe 3 or 4). It also lasts longer on chemically processed hair or color treated hair. The life of the treatment also depends on how often the hair is washed.