The Damage Fake Hair and Braids Can Inflict!
Healthy Hair Tip #3: pH Balance Your Hair
Morning Divas!!!
I was in the Naturalmemedia chat last night and we began discussing conditioners and the harshness of products- which transitioned into a discussion on the pH balance of hair. I'm just going to write a bit about pH levels- which will not require you to go searching around and looking at pH levels with litmus paper. It just requires using a rinse after your wash sessions!!
Basic Info to know first:
The pH scale runs on a range of 0-14. The lower the pH- the more acidic the solution. The breaking point for the scale is 7, which is neutral (this is the pH level of pure water). Any pH over 7 is a basic solution. pH is the measure of the "potential of hydrogen." Dry hair does not have a pH!!!! Hair's ph ranges between 4.5 and 5.5 when in water. The sebum, which is the oil that our scalp naturally produces has about the same pH. Some products on the market are created to have a pH within a range similar to hair. Some conditioners are also designed to have lower pH then the hair- its generally acidic in state.
Working with the Basics:
As previously discusses pH between 7.1-14 is basic or alkaline. These Basic solutions open the cuticle layer of hair which allows moisture, protein, almost anything to get into your hair cuticles and touch your hair's core keratin strand. Think of your hair as your spin with the vertebrae around it- when the cuticle opens we are stretching the vertebrae apart and can access your spinal cord. This is the perfect time to add protein which will strengthen your strand (though some peoples hair HATES protein). IT is also the key time to add moisture so that your hair has a nice cool drink of water with a dose of lubricants to keep things working smoothly on the inside :)! Be careful because this is also the time that your hair can lose water or retain too much, or even worse the water can dissolve leaving behind residue such as salts or other mineral present in hard water which do NOT help your strands!!!!!
This is what the baking soda washes are used for by some people- as well as to clean your hair. On average, baking soda has a pH in the range of 8.3-9.0 and when mixed with water the pH is more around 8.2-8.8 depending on the proportions. This is because water is neutral (7). Hair would be left at that pH as well (8.2-8.8) which is why an acidic rinse would be necessary to leave the hair in its own pH range or in a slightly more acidic pH range which can help the hair.
I would NOT recommend the use of baking soda on your hair, unless you are looking to relax your curl pattern temporarily. It opens your cuticles and allows your hair to retain too much water, which can also be bad- imagine overfilling a balloon with air...(yeah not a great idea). Baking soda will also steal hydrogens from your hair which is bad- like carbon monoxide stealing oxygen from the air and your body- (which is also known as a silent killer). I think you get the idea- just try not to use it.
What pH should you aim for in the end?
The best pH level to leave your hair at is around 4.0-4.5 Though hair naturally has a pH of 4.5-5.5. The reason that the slightly lowered pH level is better is because it compacts the hair strand so that the cuticles are closed securely- leaving all the moisture and conditioning you did inside the hair strand. Acidifying hair can be one of the best things you do for your hair!!
1) It will add natural shine to your hair
2) It helps detangle and prevent knotting, because closed cuticles cannot grab on to other open cuticles!
3) Elasticity: the ability of your hair to move freely- in our case without snapping and being brittle. This treatment elevates the positive charge on your hair. ( negative charged ions cause frizz and static electricity). The positive charge brings the hydrogen bonds from a weak state (beta) to a strong state (alpha) and this improves elasticity because hydrogen bonds account for all of your hairs elasticity!!!!
4) Retains moisture!! Since the cuticle is snapped shut and compacted, all the conditioning and moisturizing you did will now remain inside the cuticle and not evaporate away.
Q: How can you achieve this pH level?
A: By Doing Acid the Healthy Way!
Acidic solutions do the opposite of Basics, closing the cuticle layer and allowing moisture to be retained. So Apple Cider Vinegar is the best way to get your pH at a level which keeps hair shafts closed. The way this works is ACV has a pH of 3.0 and an ACV rinse has a pH of about 4.0 ( I will test the proportions an pH later today so I can give you an exact pH to proportion measurement). The hair would likely be left at a pH of about 4.0 or so. This should be used as a final rinse for your hair to compact your cuticles some and seal in moisture.
{Sources}
http://www.smartskincare.com/skinbiology/sebum.html
http://www.salonweb.com/gold/pc.htm
http://www.hairfinder.com/hair/hair-ph-level.htm
http://www.salonweb.com/gold/hbonds.htm
Happy rinsing!!!
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Mane and Chic!!
Be weather savvy and prepared. Check out your forecast and beauty forecast the night before. Some styles such as braid-outs and twist-outs will shrink up into fuzzy nothingness at the hint of humidity. There are some ingredients to look for that will help you survive humidity.
There is a classification of ingredient called humectants which draw moisture from the atmosphere and adds it to your hair. Some of those ingredients include glycerin, aloe vera, honey and more. These are not good for keeping your hair from frizzing and puffing, seeing as they take moisture from the air and insert it to your strands. However, there are ingredients such as silicones which help keep the hair strands smooth and block moisture from entering the hair strands. for those of you who are doing the Curly Girl method, Hydrolyzed wheat protein is a semi silicone which is water soluble, but should protect hair and work as a sort of anti humidity entity. Another type of ingredient is panthenol, this penetrates hair efficiently and thickens, moisturizes, and smooths hair strands. Finally, ingredients such as paraffinum liquidum and hydrolyzed silk protein help smooth hair and give it a silky, smooth feel and protect moisture from the atmosphere from frizzing up your tresses. Be sure when applying the products to your hair, that you smooth them into your strands so that it fully coats your hair!
Here are some anti humidity products I've used:
Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream
, Biosilk Silk Therapy Serum
, Chi Silk Infusion
, Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding
, Garnier Fructis Anti-Humidity Milk
, Ecostyler Gel (Olive Oil)
, Urban Therapy Twisted Sista Curl Activator and Urban Therapy Different Strokes Serum.*Note: Paraffinum liquidum is a form of mineral oil. The key about using paraffinum and silicones is that they keep moisture out of your hair. People become weary of using it, but if you use is properly and are aware of what it does and what you are using it for, it can be your friend. It works wonders against humidity and if you moisturize under it and use it as a sealant, you and your hair will both be happy! Knowledge is power and this is how you can learn to use even the most taboo of ingredients to your advantage! How's that for fighting back against humidity!!
Click here to go to weather.com to see your beauty forecast.
Sources:
Panthenol: sci-toys.com/ingredients/panthenol.html
For humectants: dermatology.about.com/od/glossaryh/g/humectant.htm
For hydrolyzed silk protein: www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item.php?item_id=503
For paraffinum: environment.uk.msn.com/green-living/gallery.aspx?cp-documentid=9846072&imageindex=3
For hydrolyzed wheat protein: www.lotioncrafter.com/hydrolyzed-wheat_protein.html
5 Tips to Healthier Hair: Tip #2- Deep Condition with the Triple Condition Method
This is a method I picked up when poking around on forums at LHCF.com. I have heard it referred to as the Reconditioning Method, I personally prefer to call it the Triple Condition Method (TCM). I started using this shortly after Miss Jessie's consultant told me my hair was dry and needed a DC, even though I had deep conditioned it the night before. With all that said, I do this weekly.
- Apply the DC to your hair in sections making sure to coat every hair strand. Detangle your conditioner saturated hair. It is best to put hair into 4, 6 or 8 sections of twists or braids after detangling (I prefer twists). I use a mixture I create with J.A.Y. Aubrey Organics Conditioner and some jojoba oil, aloe vera juice, olive oil and some Desert Essence Red Raspberry Conditioner.
So here's how I deep condition...
- Next, apply a plastic shower cap and sit under a Hair Therapy Wrap or conditioning heat cap or warm dryer for about 10-15 minutes.
- Take off your plastic cap and run your fingers over your head to feel for any dry spots, then apply more conditioner there and smooth it out. This is also the best time to apply more conditioner to breakage prone areas of your hair.
- Put your plastic cap on again and sit under the heat cap again for 10 minutes.
- Remove the plastic cap and apply more conditioner to weak spots such as your hairline and ends.
- Sit under heat cap or dryer w/plastic cap for the 3rd time for 10 minutes.
- Now smooth an oil of choice (I choose olive oil mixed with castor oil), on to your ends and throughout you hair to help seal the moisture in this time. This part is called an oil rinse.
- Then, rinse out your hair in the shower with more conditioner and detangle again lightly, under the showerhead.
- Finish with a cold water rinse to lock in the moisture. Then an ACV rinse, with proportions literally being one and a half teaspoons of ACV to 16oz water.
This is the method I use and I also apply a homemade/mixed leave in conditioner (kimmay tubes) after this, before styling.
Using heat with deep conditioning helps your hair cuticles to open up and allow the moisture in, the same methodology is used for your pores. The reason behind this continuous application of conditioner is to basically give your hair moisture until it is stuffed like a thanks giving day turkey and wont take anymore. The way you can tell that your hair has has its fill is when the conditioner is just sitting on top of your hair and not penetrating it. When your hair has had its fill you can rinse the rest out. If you intend to DC overnight, do the first 7 steps then in place of the 8th, go to sleep instead of rinsing it out of your hair.
So give the triple condition method a try and see if your hair is happier after this pampering session! I will post again about deep conditioning and some of the components of deep conditioner.
Thanx for reading and remember follow and comment!!
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Hair Shock after Big Chop
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Henna for your Hair
Naturale Spotlight: Yirssi
7 Month Anniversary!!
Today is my 7 month anniversary for my transitioning journey!!I am so excited!! :) I've been thinking and I may possibly only transition for 9 months. I think cutting my hair at the beginning of March would be just in time for Spring and I'll have a great amount of growth. I am so ready to be able to play with and see my natural hair instead of having to style it according to was my relaxed hair can do. I love that when my hair is natural it can be curly, coily, springy whatever! I love that its different everyday. I style my hair like every 3 days anyway just because I want to have something new.
I recently became the natural hair stylist and consultant for my family. I am like a sponge and I'm thirsty for knowledge! I tend to have a lot to say about hair and everything related to it.
