Tuesday, May 15, 2012
Curly Frizzies
Posted by
ceceUNedited |
Since its raining today in New York, I thought a post about frizziness would be appropriate...
Why does curly hair frizz so much?
Straight hair has a smooth cuticle with the layers lying tightly together. With curly hair, the hair follicle is curved causing the outer layer or cuticle to bend. This bending results in the cuticle being permanently lifted and becoming very fragile. Add the damage caused by chemicals, heat and friction (brushing, rubbing with a towel, touching, sleeping) and your smooth curls become frizzy curls.
What is porosity?
Hair porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture. Hair with high porosity is like a sponge with many tiny holes that can absorb a lot of water. Low porosity is like a sponge with uneven holes and tears which can’t absorb or retain as much water. Curly hair cuticles are like torn sponges, while damaged curly hair is a torn sponge in really bad shape.
Do oils moisturize damaged, frizzy curls?
Many oils, including heavy cholesterols, do not have the ability to penetrate into the hair shaft. Instead, they lay on top of the cuticle, coating just the outer surface. Oils can add some shine to your hair, but they will also lead to build-up of product on your hair, which can damage your curly locks.
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What does Cece say?
There are many ways to help manage frizzy hair. I have listed three1) Typically I would suggest twisting your hair up during those days so that your twists can absorb that extra moisture in the air and use it to its benefit, rather than its detriment (i.e crazy tangles in loose expanding hair).
2) Along with twisting I would recommend using scarves to style up your hair up and keep it protected while also looking fashionable
3) Sealants: The concept of sealing your hair demands that you moisturize your hair and seal the cuticle off with an Oil or even a product with a silicone in it.
Until Tomorrow....
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Sunday, May 13, 2012
How to pH Balance your hair!
Posted by
ceceUNedited |
Morning Divas!!!
I'm just going to write a bit about pH levels- which will not require you to go searching around and looking at pH levels with litmus paper. It just requires using a rinse after your wash sessions!!
Basic Info to know first:
The pH scale runs on a range of 0-14. The lower the pH- the more acidic the solution. The breaking point for the scale is 7, which is neutral (this is the pH level of pure water). Any pH over 7 is a basic solution. pH is the measure of the "potential of hydrogen." Dry hair does not have a pH!!!! Hair's ph ranges between 4.5 and 5.5 when in water. The sebum, which is the oil that our scalp naturally produces has about the same pH. Some products on the market are created to have a pH within a range similar to hair. Some conditioners are also designed to have lower pH then the hair- its generally acidic in state.
Working with the Basics:
As previously discusses pH between 7.1-14 is basic or alkaline. These Basic solutions open the cuticle layer of hair which allows moisture, protein, almost anything to get into your hair cuticles and touch your hair's core keratin strand. Think of your hair as your spin with the vertebrae around it- when the cuticle opens we are stretching the vertebrae apart and can access your spinal cord. This is the perfect time to add protein which will strengthen your strand (though some peoples hair HATES protein). IT is also the key time to add moisture so that your hair has a nice cool drink of water with a dose of lubricants to keep things working smoothly on the inside :)! Be careful because this is also the time that your hair can lose water or retain too much, or even worse the water can dissolve leaving behind residue such as salts or other mineral present in hard water which do NOT help your strands!!!!!
This is what the baking soda washes are used for by some people- as well as to clean your hair. On average, baking soda has a pH in the range of 8.3-9.0 and when mixed with water the pH is more around 8.2-8.8 depending on the proportions. This is because water is neutral (7). Hair would be left at that pH as well (8.2-8.8) which is why an acidic rinse would be necessary to leave the hair in its own pH range or in a slightly more acidic pH range which can help the hair.
I would NOT recommend the use of baking soda on your hair, unless you are looking to relax your curl pattern temporarily. It opens your cuticles and allows your hair to retain too much water, which can also be bad- imagine overfilling a balloon with air...(yeah not a great idea). Baking soda will also steal hydrogens from your hair which is bad- like carbon monoxide stealing oxygen from the air and your body- (which is also known as a silent killer). I think you get the idea- just try not to use it.
What pH should you aim for in the end?
The best pH level to leave your hair at is around 4.0-4.5 Though hair naturally has a pH of 4.5-5.5. The reason that the slightly lowered pH level is better is because it compacts the hair strand so that the cuticles are closed securely- leaving all the moisture and conditioning you did inside the hair strand. Acidifying hair can be one of the best things you do for your hair!!
1) It will add natural shine to your hair
2) It helps detangle and prevent knotting, because closed cuticles cannot grab on to other open cuticles!
3) Elasticity: the ability of your hair to move freely- in our case without snapping and being brittle. This treatment elevates the positive charge on your hair. ( negative charged ions cause frizz and static electricity). The positive charge brings the hydrogen bonds from a weak state (beta) to a strong state (alpha) and this improves elasticity because hydrogen bonds account for all of your hairs elasticity!!!!
4) Retains moisture!! Since the cuticle is snapped shut and compacted, all the conditioning and moisturizing you did will now remain inside the cuticle and not evaporate away.
Q: How can you achieve this pH level?
A: By Doing Acid the Healthy Way!
Acidic solutions do the opposite of Basics, closing the cuticle layer and allowing moisture to be retained. So Apple Cider Vinegar is the best way to get your pH at a level which keeps hair shafts closed. The way this works is ACV has a pH of 3.0 and an ACV rinse has a pH of about 4.0 ( I will test the proportions an pH later today so I can give you an exact pH to proportion measurement). The hair would likely be left at a pH of about 4.0 or so. This should be used as a final rinse for your hair to compact your cuticles some and seal in moisture.
{Sources}
Happy rinsing!!!
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Friday, May 11, 2012
6 Tips for Perfect Blowdrying
Posted by
ceceUNedited |
via MopTopMaven
- Do not blow dry sopping wet hair! Blow drying hair that is dripping wet will lead to dry, damaged hair. Carefully towel dry hair in sections using a microfiber towel prior to blow drying. When towel drying, be sure to “squeeze” not rub to avoid breakage and unnecessary tangles.
- Use a heat protectant! I always use a heat protectant when thermal styling, and I swear by Aveda Brilliant Damage Control. Good heat protectants have proteins that bind to your hair shaft that acts as a barrier to prevent heat damage. + Watch your heat setting! I normally blow dry on low heat with a high power setting. Kinky hair has a tendency to be a little on the drier side, so blow drying on high heat should really be a no-no.
- Blow dry hair until 75% dry , then sit under a dryer to dry the remainder of your hair. I prefer this method versus blow drying my hair until it’s 100% dry because it makes for much softer hair. Another plus is that you cut down on the amount of direct heat that is applied to your hair. This technique is also beneficial to those have been less than successful at air drying. Blow drying first gives your hair that “smooth” appearance, and drying under a hooded dryer the remainder of the way gives your hair the soft “air dried” feeling [minus the crunch or kink factors
- Hold the blow dryer 5-6 inches away from your hair when blow drying. Again, the key here is to avoid heat damage. Holding the dryer too close to your hair can also lead to issues with your scalp as well [dry, flaking]. + Detangle thoroughly before attempting to blow dry! Hair should be soft, smooth, and free of tangles prior to blow drying. This is the time to break out that heavy-duty seamless comb [I recommend Mason Pearson], and Fermodyl 619 if your hair is prone to tangles.
MopTopMaven applies Fermodyl after applying leave-in conditioner to help detangle. She only uses this product if her hair is very kinky or dry. Fermodyl helps with the detangling IMMENSELY and I believe it is due to the high content of lactic acid. Blow drying hair that has tangles can lead to unnecessary hair loss, as well as breakage.
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Use An Old T-Shirt To Dry Curly Hair
Posted by
ceceUNedited |
via NaturallyCurly
Instead of a towel, use an old t-shirt to dry your hair. Towels can create a scrubbing effect on your hair, removing product and damaging curl. The smoother texture of a t-shirt will prevent frizz and help to maintain your healthy locks.
Instead of a towel, use an old t-shirt to dry your hair. Towels can create a scrubbing effect on your hair, removing product and damaging curl. The smoother texture of a t-shirt will prevent frizz and help to maintain your healthy locks.
Squeeze your curls gently, never rub, in order to preserve your natural curl pattern. Move along in sections, taking a hand full of hair at a time. Keep in mind that overexposure to any type of touch can cause curly hair to lose volume or become frizzy. For best results, t-shirt dry each section of your hair only once. Be sure to squeeze out excess water and then let the final drying be by air.
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